Welcome to Casa Luna, Ubud, Bali
Casa Luna, Ubud, Bali
The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival
Making a Difference
By Janet De Neefe
With only a few weeks to go, the warm rush of adrenalin is
beginning to flow as the excitement of our fourth Ubud Writers & Readers
Festival looms in the near distance. We overstepped our programme deadline by a
week or two, due to ill-health and other bruises, but it should be on our
doorstep soon. Somehow the completion of the programme marks the dividing line
between backstage action and centre stage performance. We’re now on the homeward
run and it feels good.
The Ubud Writers & Readers Festival is a little different
to other global literary events. It was born after the first Bali bombing,
giving it a strong sense of purpose that sets it apart from the rest. I can
think of no other festival that began from such tragedy. My reaction to the
bombings was to find a meaningful way to assist the Balinese community. With my
memoir-cookbook, Fragrant Rice, soon to be published, I therefore decided it was
time to enter literary show business by creating an international writers
festival in Ubud that would address world issues, using the power of the written
word. My aim was also to boost the Balinese economy and spotlight Indonesian
writers and literature. So, in 2004, the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival was
launched.
Ubud is all about “community”. It’s that ‘united we stand’
feeling in a village that runs on co-operation and care for your family, friends
and neighbours. Creating history by setting up a world-class international event
in this artist’s hillside retreat gives me a great buzz. Ten years down the
road, my children will be proud of me (because they sure aren’t proud of me
now!). And who would have ever imagined that the Festival would become so
successful in such a short time. Amidst the chaos of running the inaugural
event, the energy was explosive. It took me a month to recover. By the closing
night, Indonesian writers and publishers were jumping up and down for joy. And
so were the international participants and the audience. We made many mistakes
but nobody cared; the feeling of solidarity and goodwill for a struggling
community over-rode any negative feelings. Lifelong friendships developed
between writers, readers and, in particular, between Australians and
Indonesians. We were fondly embraced by other Festivals in the region, such as,
the Byron Bay and Hong Kong Writers Festivals, and still continue to receive
immense support from them and others.
Our first Festival ran for six days which was so
exhausting. The following year, we decided to cut it back to four days. For our
2008 Festival, we are also thinking of reducing the number of international
writers as it is always a challenge squeezing them into only 40 sessions. At a
time when writers Festivals around the world pride themselves on inviting ‘more
writers than ever’, I find it very exciting to be inviting less. For it is the
intimacy of our event that makes it so special. Where else can you rub shoulders
with world-class writers in such a cosy, romantic setting? As one guest
commented last year, to have the opportunity to be in the audience watching a
panel of acclaimed writers while sitting next to Anita Desai was more than she
could ever imagine!
Another highly successful part of the Festival is the
educational programme that runs is ages three to eighteen, for six days. My own
children love the variety and stimulation of these sessions and topics range
from story-telling to hip-hop poetry making books, kites and shadow puppets.
More than eighty children pile into these bi-lingual workshops and due to
popularity, we hope to extend these programmes into the main school holidays
next year.
The Ubud Writers & Readrs Festival is a bi-lingual Festival
and the presence of so many Indonesian writers means we need translators on
board for quite a few panel sessions. This can interfere with the flow of
discussion but it is more important that the voices of these writers be heard. I
remember a volatile session where the translated writer became embarassinlgy
angry with the translator, telling him not to interupt, but this was a rare case
(and a rare writer!). Some sessions are also held only in Indonesian for a local
audience. This year we are taking the Festival to the universities in Denpasar
by running debates between international and Indonesian writers and we eagerly
await the impact of this move. Out of our eighty writers appearing at the
Festival, around one third are Indonesian and we are constantly trying to source
hidden talent from all corners of the archipelago.
I like to view the Festival as one big dinner party; a
moveable feast. So my prioirty has always been to attend to the comfort of the
writers and readers. Our venues are elegant and often spectacular and the food
is an integral part of the experience. Literary lunches and food discussions are
featured and some sessions even include exotic snacks or chilled wines. In one
magical session, called A Passage from India, Indian writers, Amitav Ghosh and
Randhir Khare discussed their work to the sound of the sitar while we served
warm samosas. What makes this possible is the generosity of sponsors who see the
value of supporting the community. We are also lucky that Ubud’s hotels offer
complimentary accommodation for the appearing writers and often cover the costs
of small cocktail parties and other celebrations. One clothing company on the
island even offered Amitav Ghosh some stylish clothing to grace his wardrobe,
while spas in town offer free massages with petal baths and yoghurt wraps.
Travel companies offer day trips and restaurants offer meals. Rich and famous
Ubud residents throw open their carved teak doors to entertain our biggest
names. Generosity makes it all happen.
Our main venue, Indus, is a spacious restaurant with a
dramatic view of the ricefields. Our second venue, the Left Bank Lounge, is an
empty bank next door to Indus. Each year, we transform this cold forgotten space
into a groovy lounge-like setting featuring local furniture and soft
furnishings. The Left Bank Lounge gives the reader a rare opportunity to get up
close and personal with their favourite author and these intimate conversations
are often the most popular. With increasing numbers, we will probably have to
look for other venues next year and this could be a challenge in a town where
spaces tend to be small, multi-levelled and multi-pillared. Workshops and
night-time events are held in cafes, bars and small hotels all over town in
order to provide local businesses a share of the limelight. It’s a sure way of
guaranteeing that Ubud comes to life and during the days of the Festival the
streets are buzzing.
Most of our set tasks have been completed and our priority
is to finalise sponsorships and promotional material. Getting some of our
sponsors to sign on the dotted line can be exhausting. I have been to Jakarta so
many times pleading for cash and am relieved I wont need to go back there for a
while, at least. The next job will be to slot our 100 guests into Ubud’s hotels
and hope they are happy with our choice. These spreadsheets are constantly being
changed, as you can imagine. One of our main concerns is that there has been a
huge embargo on wine in Indonesia, yet again, and we are wondering how it will
affect our ‘wine-tasting with poetry’ evening. This was a hugely successful
event last year and this year we have a different venue and theme. This alcohol
problem crops up every now and then here but somehow wine, in fact anything can
always be purchased. So my gut feeling is to keep it in the program because, in
Indonesia, there is always a way to make things happen, whether it be through
the right channels or through the back door. That is the beauty of this
intriguing country! Anything is possible and the price is not always
prohibitive. So stay tuned and let’s see if my word is true! And here’s hoping
we don’t have a dry Festival.
My Life in Bali
Over the past twenty years, my life on the fabled
island of Bali has been a joy and I can think of no better place to live
than in Ubud. Of course, it has not been without its difficulties and
sadness, but when there are no hard times, how can one appreciate the good?
Waking up every day in a sun-drenched, garden paradise, amongst people who
David Attenborough described as the ‘friendliest on earth’, is truly hard to
beat.
How could I have ever imagined I would be leading a
life embedded in one of the world’s richest cultures, living in a community
that values family, neighbours, ritual and a God who protects them, above
all else. Beyond these blessings, have been the births of our four beautiful
children, who have been my eternal teachers, even saviours, in a culture
that continues to fascinate me. Of course, I have also made many innocent
faux-pas. Embracing new customs has sometimes brought with it a touch of
apprehension, rather like dipping your toes into an icy pond, but, as my
uncle used to say, ‘he who doesn’t make mistakes, doesn’t make anything!
Each of our children have delivered their own brand of
wisdom and I cherish this culture that sees every living soul as a part of
an eternal family, in honour of ancestors who have made valuable imprints on
our precious earth. My children are my cultural advisors who guide me, not
always kindly, on all things Balinese. In fact, they guide me on all things;
temple fashion, praying, eating, driving and shopping. Needless to say, I am
often the brunt of their jokes and their displeasure. My son roared with
laughter the other day when he saw me imitating him praying the Gayatri, the
Hindu mantra, in the temple. ‘Do you know what am I saying ‘ he asked
curiously, ‘No idea!’ I said, embarrassed at his observation. He thought
that was hilarious. And then my daughter reprimanded me for tying my sarong
incorrectly. She refused to pray with me that night, so I learnt my lesson.
Praying in Bali is as much about preparing yourself in the appropriate
manner as it is about the words you whisper to God.
It is not just the culture that has kindled my love for
Bali. It is also the food. Indonesian food is surely one of the most
misrepresented cuisines in South-East Asia, and Balinese food is just a part
of this unknown entity. Imagine my first impressions of this fiery fare in
the early 70’s when the rest of Australia was still living comfortably on
lamb chops and mashed potato. Eating gado-gado, warm salad with fresh peanut
sauce and grilled frog’s legs was about the most exciting thing that had
ever happened to me! It turned my culinary world upside down and still
continues to thrill me. I have been accused of acting like a teenager over
the discovery of a new dish but without that dash of passion, I would not
have ended up living in Bali. I remember the thrill of breakfast in those
days, being greeted with a bowl of glorious tropical fruits, topped with a
tiny cheek of iridescent lime and the excitement continued with every meal.
Satays, a national Indonesian treasure that now graces every Aussie
barbeque, was then an amazing encounter – who’d ever thought of eating
grilled meat on a stick and serving it with fresh chilli or the ubiquitous
peanut sauce!
Nowadays my attention has been drawn to the diverse
flavours of the archipelago and has lead my insatiable rice-eating thirst on
a culinary journey to unravel cooking secrets from Sumatran beef curry to
Manado fish soup, Javanese white chicken curry or Sundanese sambals. I am
lucky enough to have sister-in-laws from various parts of Indonesia, so
family gatherings are usually a time to share recipes and compare cooking
techniques. And that’s where the fun begins. Can you imagine the uproar when
discussing how to make the best sambal with mothers who believe they are
Indonesia’s finest chefs!
My children share the same curiousity in cooking and
have discerning palettes that will carry them happily, albeit critically,
through life’s greatest pleasure, well, one of them anyway. In fact, we love
cooking together. It becomes like the preparation of a Balinese ceremony
where we all have our duties and work together side-by-side. I have managed
to curb my fear when Arjuna, our eight-year old son, wields a sharp knife
enthusiastically, getting involved in the action of shopping garlic and
shallots in a frenzy. The cooking becomes a mini cooking class, with
discussions of ingredients, such as the aroma of ginger versus galangal or
the impact of a dash of palm sugar syrup on the overall flavour of a dish.
Its standing room only over the wok or pot of simmering curries as each
child vies for front row. And then the taste test begins. “OK , what do you
think is missing?” I ask smugly, like an Army Major addressing his
battalion. I feel very proud that my children have embraced my passion for
this wonderful cuisine and the flavours of food around the world, because
when you open your taste buds to one cuisine, it becomes a blue print for
understanding the subtleties of others. I am happy to have accomplished at
least that much in our children’s formative years. When we hit the shores of
Australia and eat the hottest curries and spiciest sambals amongst friends,
I gloat like a Cheshire-cat at my children and their appreciation of life’s
gastronomic banquet. And I thank Bali for having provided me with this
marvelous canvas that has helped me create a master-piece, a still-life from
the Spice Islands.
Janet DeNeefe
Garuda In-Flight magazine, June edition 2007

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